It’s not often one comes across a place that oozes a mix of modern and cool so effortlessly. We are staying in the area of Norrebro. Young, vibrant and trendy is how I would describe it. If you have a bicycle, tattoos and a baby and or small dog on a lead you will fit in quite nicely.
Our road, Jaegersborggade, can easily be found by following the smell of the abundance of very good coffee houses. Like most up and coming areas, Norrebro was once infamous with left wing labour movements and forced resident evictions brought about several riots. But it all changed when Ex Noma Sous Chef, Christian Puglisi moved in while on the lookout for some affordable space to set up his own restaurant. Now Michelin starred, the Restaurant Relae was born and conveniently only a few shops away from our apartment.Shortly to follow was independent coffee specialist Coffee Collective and in 2011 the food market closeby in Torvehallerne was opened. (see note).
This brings me to the subject of Noma. It is the elephant in the room, have you been, are you going? The answer is have not been, would like to, can’t be bothered with the gruelling booking system (you have to press the link to appreciate the complexity) . Like all these restaurants it’s the drama surrounding them that I’m a bit bored with. In any event, in my next life I am coming back far more organised than I am now and thus will know what I will be doing on the 13th of September the following year. Unfortunately the current Adre (and the husband) only decided 3 weeks ago that we will be in Copenhagen.
We had a brief look around Noma on our way to the exciting street food market, and the expected drama was there. A temporary tent was set up at the back with 4 or 5 eager chefs plucking away at what looked like ducks. These ducks were then taken to prefab building no 1 which from what I could tell was the smoking and BBQ house. There are beehives, foreign machinery and plenty dutiful chefs about like busy bees outside the restaurant all busy with some culinary exploration. I am off course intrigued, but not enough to make a detour back to Copenhagen just to eat at Noma. Who knows I might be missing out.
We ate at Manfreds on our day of arrival and after schlepping our bags up 3 flights of steep stairs to our apartment, the food and wine came as a relief. I ate the ‘green dish’ of the day which consisted of Charred Beetroot & creamy Grains, Goats Cheese Yoghurt & Romaine Lettuce. Even I was surprised at the deep flavours of the creamy grains in particular. The rest had a Beef and Carrot Stew with Lentils which also did the trick. The wine was exceptional and it seemed that all the waiters had excellent wine knowledge. I had a beautiful Oaked Vermentino (Selvadolce VB) from Liguria and a Chardonnay from Auvergne (P Bouju The Blanc) which read – Patrick is back ! A beautiful cuvée made of Chardonnay from Auvergne. What else to say?
We had a short city break to Copenhagen a few years back and the Restaurant Koefoed was recommended to us. We had such inspirational food there that we thought we had to visit the restaurant again. This is always risky as you run the risk of being easily disappointed but thankfully we were not. The concept of the restaurant is that the dishes are inspired by the small Danish island of Bornholm where most of the produce are sourced. Very friendly service with a true passion for the island one can easily convert your travel plans to ensure a short trip to Bornholm.
The Cod rolled in onion ash, red onion & mussel cream was the standout dish and we very happily finished off the girls dessert of Chocolate, Yoghurt & Blueberries. Something tells me I did not miss out in the end and our budget will thank us too.
+I apologise in advance for any misspellings but even with me taking care not to misspell a name, I decided it is inevitable!